Boot or shoe



- UNITED STATES 'PATENT SOLOMON K. HINDLEY, OF WORCESTER, MSSAGHUSETTS.

BooT 0R SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part ofvLetters Patent No. 268,894, dated December 12, 1882,

' Application tiled September 19, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that 1, SOLOMON K. HINDLEY, of Worcester, in the county of Worcester and State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Boots or Shoes, of which the following is a specifica tion.

My invention relates to that class of boots and shoes known as stitch-down"7 goods, in whichthe upper is turned outward and fastened by a row or rows of i'astenings outside the body of the upper.

My invention is herein described and shown as applied to a boot or shoe in which the upper is thus fastened by waxed-thread seams; but it is obvious that rows of other fastenings may be used.

My inventionconsists in an improved arrangement of the insole, a welt, the outwardlyturned portion of the upper, and the outsole, whereby the lWelt is united to theinsole by one seam inside the body of the shoe and the outwardly-turned portion of the upper. The free portion of the welt and the outsole are united by another seam outside the body of the upper. This arrangement promotes economy in the use of material and makes practicable the production of light yet strong Work by the stitch-down process. l accomplish this result by uniting a welt to the insole at or beneath its edge and securing the outwardly-turned portion of the upper to the free portion of the welt, instead of, as hitherto, either to the insole alone or to both the insole and welt.

In the accompanying drawings, in whichV similar letters of reference indicate like parts,y

` Figure Vl is a vertical section across the ball of an insole with the welt attached beneath its edge. Fig. 2 is a vertical section across the ball of an insole with the welt attached to its edge. Fig. 3 is a vertical section across the ball ofa shoe, in which the insole and welt shown in Fig. 1 are applied. Fig. 4 is a similar section of the same shoe, but having an upper welt resting upon the outwardly-turned portion ofthe upper. Fig. 5 is a vertical section across the ball of a shoe in which the insole, with the Welt attached, as in Fig. 2, is incorporated.

.In the drawings, A is the upper. B is the insole; C, the Welt; D, the inseam, ,which unites the welt to the insole; E, the outsole;

F, the outseam, by which the outwardly-turned portion of the upper is united to the free portion of the Welt U, or to that welt and the ont- 55 sole. G, Fig.4, is what I call the upper-Welt.

d, Figs. 2 and 5, is a channelin the insole.

To carry this invention into practice I irst prepare the insole to receive the welt. 1f the welt is to be attached beneath the insole, as 6o in Figs. 1, 3, and 4L, I bevel the bottom of the insole around the edge and correspondingly bevel or chamfer the Welt. rlhe beveled portion of the welt is laid against the beveled bottom ofthe insole, and they are united by the seam D. A portion ot' the welt wide enough to reach to the proposed edge of the outsole is left projecting around the fore part and shank of the insole. The under surface of the welt as thus attached will be in the same plane as the under surface of the insole.

The welt C may be attached directly beneath the insole B/Without either being beveled. 1t Will then be necessary to insert filling to bring the under surface ot' the insole down 75 to a level with the under surface of the Welt, in order that there may be no space between the insole and the upper surface ofthe outsole.

If the welt be attached to the edge of the in sole, as is shown in Figs. 2 and 5, the insole is `8o to be prepared by grooving or beveling its edge and cutting a channel a proper distance back from its edge. The Welt is then laid on,

as shown on the left-hand side of Fig. 2, and

is attached to the insole by ruiming the seam D through the welt and the edge of the insole into the channel d. The Welt is then turned downward and folded over the exposed part of the seam D. The insole, with its Welt attached, having been prepared in either of the 9o Ways above described, is then to be tacked to a last, the upper lasted, as is usual in making stitch-down Work, its outwardly-turned portion being thus caused to rest upon the free portion ot' the welt C. The outwardly-turned 95 portion of the upper andthe welt C may be united directly by the seam F, and both afterward secured to the outsole by an outside seam; or, the outwardly-turned portion of the upper, the Welt C, and the outsole E may be roo united by the seam Fv alone, as shown in Fig.

3; or, an upper-Welt G, may be placed upon the outwardly-turned portion of the upper and secured to the upper and the outsole by the seam F, as shown in Figne.

I do not confine myself to any particular 5 method of attaching the outwardly-turned portion of the upper Ato the free portion of the Welt or to the outsole, as this invention relates exclusively to the insole with its attached welt, andthe application thereof to a stitch-down ro shoe.

I claim- An improved boot or shoe in which the upper is turned outward upon a Welt and united thereto, the Welt being also united to the insole at or beneath the edge thereof', substantially 15 as shown and described.

SOLOMON- K. HINDLEY.

Witnesses :v

ELMER P. HoWE, MARY A. FRENCH. 

